That return is partly thanks to a wave of both established jewelers and upstart designers who are breathing new life into the upper echelons of ice: ultrafine jewelry, where precious metals and stones are deployed with a more artisanal bent, and high jewelry, akin to jewelry’s haute couture, in which the rarest of gems are placed in the most showstopping of settings, resulting in one-of-a-kind heirlooms often worth millions. There’s the old guard, of course—your Tiffany and De Beers—alongside big names like hip-hop favorite Jacob & Co and elusive biker gods Chrome Hearts. There are the designer fashion labels, like Louis Vuitton and Prada, now bringing gusto and creativity to the space. And then there are the electric up-and-comers, like Frank Ocean’s Homer and diamond-grill specialist Alligator Jesus, offering fresh perspectives to an ancient art form. It all adds up to an audacious galaxy of geometric neckwear, blinding tennis bracelets, and rock-happy rings that a new generation of men are, at long last, embracing wholeheartedly.
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