A First Look at Junebug in New Orleans

It makes perfect sense that there are two turntables behind the long, spacious bar at Junebug, the nineteenth concept from the Alexandria, Virginia-based Neighborhood Restaurant Group and its third restaurant in New Orleans. It opens on Tuesday, March 18.

To music fans, Junebug’s home at 744 Camp Street in the Warehouse District is holy ground, a seminal link to the New Orleans R&B and funk sound. Between 1967 and 1978, this was the headquarters of legendary producer Cosimo Matassa’s recording studio. Allen Toussaint recorded hundreds of songs here, and the Meters coalesced in this studio. It’s where they recorded groundbreaking funk hits like Cissy Strut, with its distinctive opening bass line by George Porter Jr.

“This is a legacy we want to honor,” said partner Greg Engert, a D.C. beer legend and James Beard Award semifinalist, who developed the project along with the restaurant group’s founding partner Michael Babin. “We have a 600-album collection that will be in rotation. The idea is to set the bar to the soundtrack of New Orleans funk and pay homage to the building’s musical legacy. It’s a concept that beautifully unites the space.”

When guests walk through the main entrance to the 10,000 square feet building, on the side that used to be a parking lot, they get their first surprise. Junebug shares space with Secret Spot, a flower shop from local florist Tey Stiteler, carved out of the soaring, exposed brick-lined 3,500 square feet event space. After hours, it will be an entrance for events, with a work counter doubling as an event bar. A line of skylights bathe the space in natural light by day, inviting starlight in come evening.

Randy Schmidt

Randy Schmidt

Junebug’s bar room, framed by four arches hand painted with 128 rosettes, is crowned by a constellation of 10 lights from lighting artist Rick Singleton, each fashioned from a Victrola trumpet detailed to resemble hanging flowers. The overhead lights and wall sconces made from cymbals continue the musical tribute.

Both the event space and the restaurant open to a lushly landscaped 2,000 square feet patio with stands of bamboo and views of the nearby St. Patrick’s church bell tower. The design team of Catherine and Michael Babin, Mary Pforr, Singleton, and wallpaper artist Olga Mulica took inspiration from nature and music. The restaurant is shot through with references to the natural world, including Mulica’s dramatic Night Pelican mural and floral wallpaper from Harney and Sons. The patina of old brick provides contrast and highlights the age and history of the building.

Randy Schmidt

Executive chef and pitmaster Shannon Bingham, who opened Brewery Saint X and Devil Moon Barbecue for the group, leads Junebug’s kitchen. Here, Bingham offers a menu with an accent both Southern and French, small plates like croquettes monsieur, a crispy ham and cheese take on the popular bistro sandwich. There is candied pecan pimento cheese and crackers, tuna crudo with sweet potato vinaigrette, and hot fried oyster with celeriac remoulade.

More substantial bites include braised housemade duck and bacon sausage meatballs, pan roasted catch of the day gulf fish, and the inspired pairing of cornbread gnocchi with a lamb ragu laced with fresh mint. The dessert menu delivers creative last bites, including orgeat panna cotta with satsuma granita and apple crumble paired with cheddar ice cream. A $60 “feed me” menu is an intriguing option, as are the kitchen’s late-night hours, offering night owls and hospitality workers polished options after midnight. The entire menu will be served until closing.

Randy Schmidt

Bar manager and assistant general manager Sophie Burton most recently worked at Bar Tonique and Holy Diver in New Orleans, and before that helped open Jojo’s Beloved Cocktail Lounge in Atlanta’s Politan Row food hall. Expect classic and house cocktails, with a section of the menu that offers drinks two ways, full-strength and lower ABV. Junebug will specialize in eau de vie and fruit brandies mixed into cocktails or served on the rocks. Speaking to Engert’s passion for beer, there will be a dozen on draft and bottles he says will be new to New Orleans. Happy hour will run weekdays from 4 to 6 p.m.

Randy Schmidt

As for the restaurant’s name, it has two meanings. Besides being a green-backed scarab beetle that is a harbinger of spring, Junebug is also the co-owners Michael and Catherine Babin’s pet name for their daughter June, making this project personal indeed.

Junebug will be open Sunday and Tuesday to Thursday from 4 to 11 p.m. and on Fridays and Saturdays from 4 p.m. to midnight. Closed on Mondays.